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On the 16th I worked on getting caught up, getting my initial train and Sapporo posts up.
I met Michael who in theory has been waiting weeks for me to mention him, and is likely already back home after spending time with is father in Tokyo. He did something quite cool, he rode a bike from the Southern tip to the Northern most tip of Japan. When we met he had about 2 days of riding left from Sapporo. Made me wish I had spent at least a little time outside the cities… but alas.
For my last night in Sapporo I once again splurged and had a second bowl of soup curry, this time at a 19 out of 40 on the spicy scale. Much better than a 9. (Soup Curry photo set.)
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Dropbox version. (Fell asleep before I hit publish. Oops.)
I fear this post may be a bit shorter than the last, I already went through the accident at the end, and for a large part of my day there really wasn’t a whole lot to say.
For my second day in Kyoto I decided to set off further North to try to reach the Heian Jingu Shrine, which has some of the latest blooming Cherry Blossoms in Kyoto. It was also featured in Lost in Translation and the garden is one of the most famous. It’s also about 3-4 times larger than the garden I went to in Minato-ku Tokyo.
I covered much of the same ground I did in the late afternoon of Sunday, but I would have about 2km further to walk. I once again passed the Fire Station, which is required if I’m going pretty much anywhere, it appeared as though they were preparing for some sort of drill.
I made my way further down the street and noticed a sign pointing to a shrine I hadn’t noticed. Oddly it was a street I had been down, but came from the opposite direction. When I came across the garden with the statues I knew I was right, but somehow, I didn’t look the other direction.
I went a bit further up but it appeared closed off, so I went back to my mission only to be once again distracted once I made it past the furthest shrine I saw on Sunday. It appeared that there was a fairly long street through a gate, followed by another doored gate, followed by quite a few steps, and then temple grounds.
There were signs indicating that a the central temple was closed off for construction. This is partially correct. The building is under construction, but it appears that they are far enough along that parts of it are actually open to the public. Large parts of the building were unpainted wood, and even the parts that were, looked like simple modern construction designed to vaguely resemble the traditional designs. I presume it is just a starting point, but it still looked a bit strange.
Finally, I worked my way around, followed a sort of canal bypass street which still had a partially open, granite drain for the water to flow down to a street that was a straight shot to the target shrine. Now I had heard that the gate in front of the shrine was big, but… they’re not kidding. Outside Kyoto’s National Museum of Modern Art there appeared to be some sort of small film production going on. Had I been smart I would have taken a picture of the back of the chairs, but I’m not.
Finally arriving at my primary goal for the day, I found myself inside a large courtyard covered with a thin layer of off white gravel. The grounds themselves were quite interesting to look at, and the cougar and dragon guardians were quite photogenic.
Finding myself finally there, I did notice looking past the entrance to the garden, that the cherry trees, had not one blossom upon them, nor even any to be seen on the ground and the entry fee was 600 yen. I hemmed and hawed but eventually decided that it was probably going to be worth it regardless of cherry blossoms.
Avid readers will remember I mentioned two missteps when talking about my Monday night accident. This was the figurative one.
Don’t get me wrong, the garden is still quite beautiful, however it was, at least at the moment, not worth the price of entry. Unlike the garden in Minato, it is overly reliant upon cherry blossoms. It seemed the second largest arrangements are lilies, which have only just started to bloom, there are few parts that will be interesting the entire year.
The worst of it is that the garden is quite linear, direction signs everywhere, back tracking is discouraged, every small island was closed. The steps in the image above, were closed off. And the entire last quarter of the garden was closed. None of this information was available even via pictograms or map updates. I’m not asking for English, but something would be nice.
I don’t want to come across as though I didn’t enjoy the garden. It was still quite pretty and the water was so clear you could see the turtles without issue. Regardless, I would have rather gone back to the one in Minato as it seemed so much more relaxing and they ensured something large was always in bloom.
Damnit, I really wanted to walk across the stone platform bridge thingy!
Hindsight appears to be harsher than I felt at the time, and I really do want to get across that probably most of my frustration is now amplified due to the accident later.
Though far too late to actually go inside, I decided to look at the Imperial Palace grounds, which are primarily giant parks, and is nearly 1.5km long. I would need to cross over a semi-dry riverbed, and past Japan’s first commercial hydroelectric plant.
I would also find a liquor store which had fairly decent prices, such as Lagavulin 16 for $68. Grocery stores also caught my eye, a more expensive Fresco, and one of two stores claiming to be co-ops but appearing to actually be brands, and are at best the same price as Fresco. This was the first time I looked at the price of rice. The largest bags are 5kg, and the cheapest I saw was 1980 yen. That’s about $25 for 11lbs. Rice. Potatoes are 38 yen per 100 grams, which puts them at about the same price as rice.
At least the booze is fairly reasonably priced.
Shockingly I eventually made it to the park, and began walking around, it was so vast you could completely forget the city and find a place thick enough with trees you could forget there was anything else.
I decided to look at the front gate of the palace, and it was okay. Just prior to getting to them I was a little distracted by a giant white dog. Near the gates, out of the corner of my eye I saw a small cat running into the bushes, hiding from a man on a bike complete with a dog in the basket. At first I thought the cat to be overreacting, but the man was actually chasing the cat around.
After he left, I tried to see if I could calm the cat down, I softly approached, attempting to mimic the meow the cat was making through my cold. While the cat continued to talk back, once again, like all but one cat, it remained distrustful of me. Later on another man on a bike came, and he bore food. That seemed to get the cat’s trust. Go figure.
I was always afraid meowing at cats would get me in trouble. Just as I was giving up on calming down the cat (or kitten or I don’t even know, so many of them are so small, I wonder if they get enough food to actually grow) I heard something like, “You have a pretty good meow.”
“Years of practice.”
“Where?” “Seattle” “Hawaii, Big Island” “Sean” “Annie”
Cleverly I take advantage of the conversation to actually sit down for the first time in six or seven hours.
Turns out she is studying abroad, majoring in English Lit and Linguistics focusing on Japanese, which she can speak a fair amount due to half of her family, but living in Hawaii, never really had much to practice reading with. During this conversation I also discovered that mosquitoes like this park, and me.
She had a test on kanji today. Hopefully she did well.
At this point all natural light had faded. I began walking home, thinking I might make a rectangle of my trip, but then I realized I didn’t want to walk all the way back to Fresco, so I would only venture so far before cutting back to know streets.
I found yet another liquor store, and it had even less of a selection of regular items, it was pretty much all alcohol. The selection was amazing, and unlike the last place it had better prices, and the scotch I was looking for.
I probably spent 30 minutes deciding if I would actually buy the Miyagikyo 12, but I eventually pulled the trigger. It was expensive, but still about $60 cheaper than you can get it in Canada… since it doesn’t come to the USA. I also picked up a can of stout from Japan’s first micro-brewery. It was okay.
On my way back, I investigated the subway, but I couldn’t find anything that would get me near the hostel, and the information guy wasn’t sure of anything that went near Gojo either. I didn’t think it would be a big deal, just would have been nice for the future.
I also investigated drug stores to check prices there on pain killers, which is when I found out how expensive those are. However I guess that takes us back to Failure Snatched From the Hands of Victory.
Which means I’m finally caught up, since the update for today will be to write, something like: “I processed photos and wrote the updates you’ve now read while I healed from my injuries. It took all day. I didn’t buy the sashimi because I wasn’t hungry after having the thing I purchased for lunch.”
Hooray! Done with my work that I technically don’t have to do, but feel compelled to do so anyway.
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